What Does Rodent Damage to Car Wiring Cost? Repair Prices & Next Steps

Rodent damage to your car is no small problem. In the United States alone, it’s estimated to cause nearly $200 million in repair costs annually. Across the Atlantic, a survey in the United Kingdom reported that 9% of car owners experienced rodent-related damage, with costs soaring into the billions globally.

For RV owners, the statistics are even more concerning. According to an RVtravel poll, 30% of respondents reported paying for rodent-related repairs.

But if you found this page, there’s a good chance you’re not here for the scary stats — you’re here because a shop just told you something like: “Your wiring harness is chewed,” and now you’re staring at a quote that ranges from “annoying” to “are you kidding me?”

So in this guide, we’ll get straight to it: what rodent damage to car wiring usually costs, why the range is so wide, what to do next (including insurance), and how to keep it from happening again.

Rodent Damage to Car Wiring Cost (Quick Answer)

In most cases, repairs for rodent-chewed wires land anywhere from a few hundred to several thousand dollars, depending on whether you’re dealing with a small repair… or a harness replacement situation.  

Here’s the most useful way to think about your quote:

 

Why the Estimate Range is So Wide?

A small repair can be simple. But if the chewed wires are buried, widespread, or tied into a main harness, the labor alone can balloon — and that’s before you get into sensors/modules/diagnostics.  

Why Is Rodent Damage So Expensive?

Rodent damage feels overpriced because the parts themselves aren’t always expensive — but when wiring is involved, you’re usually paying for diagnostics, access, and the risk of hidden damage. In other words: it’s not “a chewed wire”… it’s everything it takes to find it, reach it, and fix it correctly.

• Diagnostics time adds up fast (tracing circuits, scanning codes, confirming what’s actually causing the symptoms)
• Wiring is often buried (engine bay components, panels, undertrays, sometimes interior trim/dash)
• Repair vs. harness replacement changes the bill overnight (a repair can be reasonable; a harness can jump into the thousands)
• Damage is rarely isolated (nesting, insulation, hoses, or secondary issues can be involved)
• Electrical issues can cascade if the vehicle keeps being driven or repeatedly started while damaged

What to Do Next

When you’re staring at a wiring quote, it’s easy to panic — or worse, keep driving and make it more expensive. Here’s the most practical way to handle it.

1) Decide if it’s safe to drive

If your car is throwing warning lights, acting “possessed” (random dash lights, glitchy electronics), smelling like hot plastic, or struggling to start — don’t keep pushing it. Electrical problems can escalate fast, and you don’t want a small wiring issue to turn into a bigger one.

When in doubt: get it towed and avoid cycling the ignition over and over.

2) Document everything (this helps with insurance and with your shop)

Before anyone cleans anything up:

• Take photos of any droppings, nesting, chewed insulation, and visible wire damage
• Note where you found signs (engine bay, cabin air filter area, glove box, trunk, etc.)
• Ask the shop to document what they found in writing (even a basic summary helps)

3) Get clarity on what is actually being repaired

This one question can save you thousands: “Are we repairing individual wires, or replacing part/all of a wiring harness?”

If the shop is recommending a harness replacement, ask:

• Which harness? (engine bay, dash, door, etc.)
• What drove the decision? (location, severity, number of circuits, safety concerns)
• Are there alternatives? (repairing a section, sourcing a used harness, etc.)

This isn’t about arguing — it’s about understanding what’s being quoted.

4) Consider a second opinion if the quote is big

If you’re in the $3,000+ territory, a second opinion is usually worth the effort, even if it just confirms the first shop. Some techs are more comfortable repairing wire damage; others default to replacement for liability and time.

A good second opinion is especially helpful if:

• The damage isn’t clearly shown to you
• The shop can’t explain why repair isn’t possible
• You’re being quoted “full harness” immediately

5) If you have comprehensive insurance, start the claim process early

Rodent damage is commonly handled under comprehensive coverage (policy-dependent), which is why your documentation matters.

Before you authorize big work, it’s smart to:

• Ask your insurer what they need (photos, diagnostic notes, estimate)
• Confirm your deductible and whether you can choose your repair shop
• Keep copies of everything (estimates, invoices, tow receipts)

(We’ll cover insurance in its own section next so this doesn’t get too long.)

6) Before you get the car back… make a “never again” plan

This is the part most people skip — and it’s why they end up paying twice.

If rodents got into your vehicle once, it means the environment around it is active. Prevention isn’t just sprays and pouches. You want a layered plan:

• Remove attractants (food, bird seed, trash, nesting material)
• Address the parking/storage area
• And add a physical deterrent so they can’t easily access the vehicle again

That last piece is where a barrier solution becomes the “never again” move — especially after you’ve already paid for repairs.

Will Insurance Cover Rodent-Chewed Wiring?

Often, yes — if you carry comprehensive coverage. Rodent damage (including chewed wiring) is typically treated as a non-collision loss, which is what comprehensive is for. Coverage still varies by policy and provider, so it’s always worth confirming directly.

Quick rule of thumb:

• Comprehensive: commonly covers rodent damage (minus your deductible)
• Liability-only: won’t cover damage to your vehicle
• Collision: usually not the category for this type of claim

If you’re considering a claim, do these 3 things

1. Document the evidence (photos of droppings/nesting/chewed areas)
2. Get a written estimate that notes suspected rodent damage
3. Call your insurer before authorizing major work (especially if you’re looking at harness replacement)

👉 Check out our full guide on Is Rodent Damage Covered by Auto Insurance?

Why Do Rodents Target Vehicles?

If you’re dealing with chewed wires (or you’re trying to avoid ever dealing with them again), it helps to understand what’s drawing rodents in.

They aren’t actively trying to be malicious — but your vehicle offers them everything they need to thrive during the colder months. Here’s why:  

• Safe shelter: Your vehicle provides easy protection from the elements and any natural predators.
• Nesting material: Upholstery, insulation, and other vehicle components are perfect for building warm, cozy nests.
• Food sources: Even the smallest scraps can draw a rodent. Food crumbs, trash, and soy-coated wiring can attract a hungry guest.
• Easy access: You’d be shocked how many tiny hideaways there are for a mouse to enter through, including vents, pipes, and engine bays.

Once inside your vehicle, mice and other rodents will chew. It’s in their nature — those teeth never stop growing — and unfortunately, your wiring harness, insulation, and hoses are basically “chewable infrastructure.”

Soy-Based Wiring: Is It Really “More Attractive” to Mice?

If you’ve gone down the rodent-damage rabbit hole, you’ve probably heard the soy-based wiring theory: that some modern wire coatings use more plant-based materials, and that this makes wires “tastier” to rodents.

Here’s the honest take: it’s hard to prove that soy wiring is the reason rodents chew, and plenty of vehicles without soy-based coatings still get hit. Rodents chew because their teeth never stop growing — and once they’re in your engine bay (or cabin), they’ll gnaw on whatever’s in the way.

That said, the myth exists for a reason: enough owners have experienced costly wiring damage that the topic has sparked real controversy and even legal disputes over the years.

Other Types of Rodent Damage (It’s Not Always Just Wiring)

Wiring damage tends to be the most expensive (and the most panic-inducing) because it can cause no-start issues, warning lights, and electrical gremlins that take time to diagnose.

But it’s not the only way rodents can rack up a repair bill. Depending on where they nest and what they chew, you can also end up dealing with:

• Hoses and fluid lines (coolant, washer lines, etc.): Chewed hoses can lead to leaks, overheating, and bigger problems if you don’t catch it quickly.
• Belts and soft rubber components: Less common than wiring, but it happens — and it can create secondary issues that feel unrelated at first.
• Insulation : Under-hood insulation is a favorite nesting material. Sometimes you’ll see shredded padding, sometimes you’ll just smell it.
• Air intake and cabin air filter areas: These are classic nesting spots. And if the nest is near airflow, you’ll often notice odor and debris fast.
• Upholstery and interior materials: Especially if the vehicle sits for long stretches — mice will build where they feel safe.
• Droppings + urine contamination: Even when the mechanical damage is minor, cleanup can turn into its own project (odor, health concerns, detailing).

Bottom line: wiring is often what gets people into the shop… but nests, fluids, and contamination are what make a “simple fix” turn into a bigger headache.

Be Proactive: Make This a One-Time Problem With Box-Kat

The best way to deal with rodent damage is to stop it before it starts — and especially before it starts again.

Box-Kat is a patented mouse barrier that creates a physical perimeter around your vehicle. Instead of relying on scents, sprays, or “maybe it works” deterrents, you’re using a simple idea that holds up in real life: block access. Mice can’t burrow under it or squeeze past it, which helps protect the wires, hoses, and insulation they love to chew.

Whether you’re protecting a daily driver, a classic car, a trailer, an RV, or a van, Box-Kat is built for the “never again” moment — the one where you’re done paying for the same headache twice.

Invest in a Box-Kat today and keep your vehicle ready for the road — not the repair shop.