Hungry mouse in home kitchen

How Long Can Mice Live Without Food?

You’ve spotted a mouse. Maybe it’s tucked into your attic, maybe hiding in your car. You’re sure there’s nothing left for it to eat, so you wonder: how long can it survive?

In most real-world conditions, a house mouse lasts just 2–4 days without food. In fact, a classic lab study found that even under controlled conditions with water, no mouse survived beyond five days.

But here’s the catch: mice don’t just give up when food runs out. They adapt, they scavenge, and they often cache food in advance. So if you’re counting on hunger to drive one away, it’s not a plan you want to bet on.

Short Answer
Most house mice last 2–4 days without food.
In rare, controlled conditions with water, a lab study reported a maximum of about 5 days.

The 5-Day Lab Study — and What It Really Means

In 1971, researchers conducted fasting experiments on mice. The results showed that while some mice died sooner, none lived longer than five days without food (with water available).

That’s a hard biological limit. But here’s the important context: those were lab animals in tightly controlled conditions. In your attic, garage, or vehicle, a mouse is exposed to stress, fluctuating temperatures, and limited water. In reality, 2–4 days is the much more likely survival range.

What Changes the Clock?

When it comes to the real world (and your real home), it’s important to understand that plenty of factors play a role in prolonging the lifespan of a mouse.

Here’s what matters — and what you can do about it:

  • Water access. Mice survive longer if they can drink or pull moisture from food. Even condensation around pipes or a leaky faucet can sustain them.
  • Temperature & metabolism. In cold conditions, mice enter daily torpor — a shallow, hibernation-like state that slows their metabolism and decrease the need for food.
  • Life stage. Pups are highly vulnerable, while adults may hang on longer.
  • Reproduction. Pregnant and nursing females burn calories at double or triple the normal rate.
  • Caching behavior. Mice stash food when they can. Even if you remove obvious food, hidden caches may keep them going for days.

Survival Factors — and What You Can Do

Swipe horizontally to see all columns →
Factor Effect on Survival What You Can Do
Water access With water (or moisture from food), mice can push toward the upper end of the range; without it, survival drops quickly. Fix drips/condensation, dry sinks and trays, and store pet food/bird seed in airtight containers.
Temperature & metabolism Cooler temps can trigger brief daily torpor, lowering metabolism and stretching limited reserves. Seal drafts and insulate storage areas so cold conditions don’t “help” mice last longer.
Life stage Pups have tiny reserves and decline fast; healthy adults tolerate short shortages better. Act quickly if you hear squeaks or see very small droppings; set traps and remove nesting materials.
Reproduction Pregnant/lactating females burn far more energy and deplete reserves faster without food. Keep easy calories off-limits every day; one cleanup isn’t enough where activity is ongoing.
Caching behavior Mice stash food; hidden caches can sustain them for days despite a “clean” kitchen or garage. Purge hidden snack spots—glove boxes, totes, RV drawers; look for gnawed bags and seed piles.
Shelter & access Warm, protected nesting sites (engine bays, insulation) keep mice in place even when food is scarce. Seal ¼″+ gaps, close entry points, and use a vehicle barrier (e.g., Box-Kat) during storage.

Why You Can’t Count on Mice to Just Leave

It’s tempting to think that if you clean up a space and remove the food, the mouse will run out of options and move on. Oftentimes, you’d be wrong.

  • They don’t need much. A mouse only eats about 3 grams a day — a crumb here, a few kernels there is enough to sustain it. Even if your kitchen looks spotless, it may still find what it needs behind appliances, in pantries, or in pet food bowls.
  • They stash food in advance. Mice are natural hoarders. A single trip into your pantry or bag of bird seed can supply a store of nutrients that lasts days or weeks. That’s why you may see fresh activity even after you’ve removed accessible food.
  • They adapt to water sources. House mice can survive long periods without free water by drawing moisture from food, or from condensation around pipes and appliances. A leaky faucet in a garage or basement can be enough to keep them going.
  • They seek shelter as much as food. Warmth and protection are just as important as calories. An engine bay, attic insulation, or storage box offers safety, so a mouse will stick around even if food is scarce.
  • They may be less stuck than you think. Mice can squeeze through holes as small as a dime, leap across gaps, and scurry up walls. Not to mention, they’re tiny and quiet. There’s every chance they’re sneaking out when you’re not looking for more food.

Bottom line: waiting for hunger to drive a mouse out almost never works. The only effective solution is to deny them both food and access — sealing entry points, cleaning up attractants, and installing physical barriers like the Box-Kat mouse barrier around vehicles or storage spaces.

Mouse surrounded by mouse traps

How to Get a Mouse Out of Hiding?

Mice are stubborn guests. And the worst part about them, is that they are quick to multiply. That’s why it’s so important to act immediately when you find signs of an infestation.

Here’s what to do:

  1. Remove all resources: Seal food in airtight containers, wipe away crumbs, empty trash, and tidy any debris that could be used for nesting material. The less hospitable, the better.
  2. Open the windows: It may sound counterintuitive, but exposing the mice to the elements can bring colder temperatures, sunlight, and additional noises that may drive them away.
  3. Use scare tactics: Mice are very sensitive. Turn up the radio, blast the heat, leave the lights on, use herbal sprays — anything you can do to make things less comfortable will help.
  4. Place traps strategically: Traps are an essential tool for removing mice. (Check out our full guide on where to place them for best results)
  5. Support with preventative measures: Getting mice out is only half the battle. Next, you need to keep them from coming back. Seal any gaps, keep the area clean, and use the Box-Kat mouse barrier to prevent mice from invading.

For a full walkthrough, check out our detailed, step-by-step guide on How to Get a Mouse Out of Your Car.

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